We arrived early on a Friday morning at Atocha Station via the Cercanías train service that encircles Madrid.  The trip from our friends’ lovely home in Las Rosas took about 20 minutes.  Upon arrival I could not help but remember the horrible events of March 11, 2004 when attacks, directed by an al-Qaeda-inspired terrorist cell, killed 191 people and wounded 1,755 on four Cercanías trains. The station today is clean, modern and beautiful with an indoor palm garden. A plaque honors “the solitude felt by Madrid's citizens, and in memory of the courage and generosity of all the services and people who came to their aid.”

Our nonstop train trip to Toledo, one of the historical capitals of medieval Spain, cost about $30.00 round trip and took 30 minutes. Toledo is recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO for it’s many historical monuments and for its’ history of Christian, Jewish and Muslim coexistence. The Toledo train station, built in the 1920's, is in the Mudejar architectural style.  The elaborately painted ceiling and beautiful stained glass windows, befitting a house of worship or a palace, are a delightful welcome into this important city.

Toledo sits upon a hill along the river Tajo.  We began our day trip by taking a taxi to the farthest point in the city in order to walk our way back toward the train station.

Our first stop was my very first to a synagogue, anywhere.  The Sinagoga del Transito was built in the 14th century.  It was taken over by the Catholics after 1492 and named Tránsito de Nuestra Señora (Our Lady's Transit, meaning Mary's assumption into heaven).  Today it has been restored and has what is said to be the most elaborate Mudejar interior in the entire city.  The coffered ceiling beautifully incorporates Islamic, Gothic and Hebrew geometric motifs.  A small but important museum dedicated to Spanish Jewish culture adjoins the synagogue.

After a enjoying our first of many delicious tortilla de patata, we continued our tour. The oldest and largest of Toledo’s synagogues is Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca which features a white interior, horseshoe arches, ornamental horizontal moldings, and pillars supporting capitals with filigree workmanship. The Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes was built by Ferdinand and Isabella as their final resting place.  Its’ gothic cloister cannot be missed. Iglesia de Santo Tomé features El Greco’s masterpiece, “The Burial of Count Orgaz.”  Toledo Catedral is the spiritual heart of the Catholic Church in Spain.  Its’ sacristy holds masterpieces by El Greco, Titian and Goya.  We found ourselves in the cafeteria high up in the Alcazar. It provided us with a compelling view of the medieval part of the city.  Museo de Santa Cruz is house in a 16th century hospital.  It holds yet another El Greco masterpiece, “The Assumption.”

Toledo has been famous for centuries for its’ swords and knives. Damascene ware is the art of decorating steel with gold, silver and copper thread. Damascened plates, boxes, ash trays, pendants, swords and bracelets fill virtually every store window. Wondering how I would get a sharp weapon through an airport, I chose to take home a small damascene snuff box.

We left Toledo having experienced a city rich with art, architecture and history; a city where Christians, Jews and Muslims, each left their mark.  At every turn Toledo has much to share.